A Menorca Love Story

I may not get out this week.  Storm Brendan is on the way from Canada. I think it's payback time because we sent them Harry and Sparkle.

My gout has returned with a resolve to keep me indoors this week. For now here is a tale of Menorca with lots of pictures. Click the pics for a panorama.

   

Once the kids finished living the good life and made their way into the big wide world, Sue and I took a few holidays. It’s fair to say we got around a bit; Caribbean, Malaysia, Mexico, The Golden Triangle, Thailand, Goa, Sri Lanka, et al. I also spent a couple of spring times undertaking voluntary ringing work at Long Point, Canada, helping locals get to grips with handling wild birds. 

Eventually the long hauls became tiring and wasteful for us both. Two days travelling at either end of each holiday was no longer a thrill to tick just another spot on the globe. We looked around for somewhere to spend a couple of weeks in Spring or Autumn - a decent sort of place without Brits in Union Jack shirts or bars that promised “Full English” and 50 inch sport until 2am; somewhere we might relax, explore and discover. We found Menorca, a two hour flight away and where a 15 year love affair began. 

The Menorcan landscape is like the Yorkshire Dales on steroids, but with wall-to-wall sunshine and clear blue skies 24/7. The smooth as glass and super fast roads are no-expense-spared, courtesy of the EU’s mammoth unverified budget and thanks to a hefty contribution from long-suffering British Taxpayers.  In spring wildflowers dominate the landscape in countless shades and voluminous hues. 

Menorca 

Menorca

There is one main road in Menorca that links the capital Mahon in the east to the earlier capital but now second city of Ciutadella in the extreme west. Think of the island roads like the bones of a Dover Sole with the backbone down the centre and minor bones heading off north and south. 

The minor bones lead to the seasonal and coastal holiday resorts May to October because Menorca shuts up shop to sun seekers from November to April. A Menorcan winter in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea can be wet and windy, rather like a March day in in Blackpool or Brighton. 

https://www.map-of-spain.co.uk/large-map-of-menorca.htm 

We mostly based in the well-mannered south coast holiday resort of Sant Tomas where the sun shone hot and long, and from where we spent most days, or mornings at least until the afternoon sun beckoned. From here we explored the countryside and visited real Menorcan towns like Alaior, Es Migjorn, Es Mercadal or the fishing village of Fornells rather than sunshine resorts. Not for us the few plebby, honky-tonk resorts in the south west of the island that in part mimic the worst of both Ibiza and Majorca, Menorca’s sister Balearic islands. If we wanted that we could stay home and hit the M55 to Blackpool or Lytham St Annes. 

Es Migjorn 

 Fornells

Es Migjorn 

 Alaior

Es Mercadal

Often we’d drive into the second city, Ciutadella, a fine old city with an authentic vibe, a charming port, and an old quarter with good examples of Baroque and Gothic architecture. Ciutadella used to be the capital of culture and commerce in Menorca. It has supposedly been superseded by the official capital Mahon but any Menorca aficionado will tell you that Ciutadella or “Vella I Bella”, the Old and Beautiful, is the finer of the two. 

Ciutadella 

The Gothic cathedral of Ciutadella in Placa de la Catedral dates back to the 13th century. Although it’s impossible not to take photographs of its domineering presence, as an odd couple of lapsed Catholic and agnostic we never felt the need to enter, but rather to simply marvel at the awe-inspiring dimensions. 

Placa de la Catedral

 Ciutadella

The port of Ciutadella is both a fishing and leisure port with an abundance of waterside restaurants which line the quay. Early risers get to watch the fisherman bring in the local catch of the day. From here there’s a ferry over to Alcudia in Mallorca (Majorca), if you really have to. The Placa d’es Born is one of the most picturesque squares in Ciutadella, on what used to be a former Arab marching ground; an obelisk now stands to commemorate the Turkish invasion of 1558. 

Placa d’es Born 

In the old streets there’s a fish market and a row of butcher’s shops that sell free range chicken, pork and beef that once upon a time you could buy in any British town until out-of-town supermarkets destroyed them. And then there’s the serrano, air dried ham - choose your leg and gnaw away. 

Serrano 

We knew from previous visits that another day to Mahon (Mao) might coincide with a Med Cruise stop when spotless cruisers, released from captivity for the day, swarm along the lovely old streets looking for tat which local shops provide in abundance. After a couple of visits we gave it a miss just in case. 

Mahon 

In Menorca it’s impossible to buy a bad cup of cappuccino and where Costa Coffee is but a bad dream. We learned Spanish, or at least how to ask for “dos café con leche, por favour”. Y un ensaimada, Gracias”. We never did get the hang of Menorquí apart from “Bon Dia.” 

Ensaimada, Coffee, Bocadilla  

The two official languages of Menorca are Catalan and Spanish. Natives to the island speak the variety of Catalan called Menorquí, and they typically speak Spanish fluently as a second language. A 2014 survey carried out by the Government of the Balearic Islands found that 53.5% of participants identified themselves as Catalan speakers, 36.7% as Spanish speakers, and 7.7% as bilingual speakers. Quite where the islanders stand on the question of Catalan independence and that the EU insist Catalans are Europeans we don’t know. Suffice to say that in fifteen years we never discussed politics with a native, only with other British holidaymakers, more so since June 2016. 

Many Menorquins still practice traditional farming. Spring flowers and Mediterranean birds thrive, but even here this historic farming technique is on the decline in favour of agri-monoculture, the policy that has destroyed so much of Britain’s diversity of flora and fauna during the last forty years. Our fifteen years in Menorca saw perceptible declines in some species of flowers and native birds, although being on a migration path to and from Europe and Africa, the island still provides a stop-off point for birds on that journey in spring and autumn.  

Menorca in May

In 2014 I spent a morning with Javier helping with his local version of Constant Effort Ringing. In following years we always bumped into Javier on our travels as he led springtime birding and walking tours around the island  

 Sardinian Warbler

Mediterranean Flycatcher 

Javier 

In spring the valles (valleys) and roadsides throb with the sounds of warblers, Bee Eaters, Hoopoes and Nightingales, so much so that I swear the Nightingale is the most common bird of the island. Trying to see this highly secretive bird, day or night is another matter.  Fortunately there are other special birds to enjoy, and even the resident Hermann's Tortoise to admire, very often at the risky roadside where cars and oblivious occupants speed by. Sue became my dependable spotter and camera minder when the promise of a later glass of rioja worked like magic. 

Woodchat Shrike 

 Black-winged Stilt

Audouin's Gull 

Cattle Egret 

Egyptian Vulture 

Purple Heron

Stonechat 

Bee Eater

Mediterranean Flycatcher 

Corn Bunting

 Turtle Dove

Heerman's Tortoise 

Tawny Pipit 

Red-footed Falcon 

Scops' Owl 

Hoopoes - A Menorca Love Story

Menorca was quiet enough for us. From 2005 and all through the global financial downturn we found the peace and quiet we desired on an island we could discover with little help from brochures and tourist guides. A simple map and a hire car was all we required. We made friends of locals and tourists alike.  Hotel and shop staff greeted us like long lost pals and we to them. 

Menorca

And then in 2017 came changes. The self-governing Balearics decided that tourism should increase and that the tourists themselves should contribute to the cost of the necessary infrastructure. In came a tourist tax that added another Euro 90 to our not inconsiderable bill for two weeks at a four star. In addition, every year the price of our room increased by 10%. 

In came “improvements” and extensions to the once small and user-friendly airport. In 2018 and 2019, we lined up outside the terminal like naughty schoolchildren then spent two hours and three hours at passport control where two Policia youths scrutinised our pale British faces for signs of terrorism. Once cleared of extremist preferences, the queues for hire cars snaked through the hall but luckily we had a local contact who met us outside away from the madding crowds to lead us to a waiting Panda. 

Our self-discovered noiseless spots became loud and overrun with boisterous, shouty people. And then came the bikes, hordes of them riding in impassable convoy along once quiet byways and tracks, yelling so that all could hear their inanities; throwing their water bottles onto the verge or stuffing them into ancient stone walls along once deserted roads. 

Punta Nati

Menorca had become not quite a hell-hole, but not the place we grew to love. The island was in danger of killing the goose that laid the golden egg. 

Menorcan Donkeys

We may go back but for now have decamped to Greece where we found a new love.

Linking this post to Anni's Birding  and  Eileen's Saturday Critters.

Bargain Bins

We all like a bargain don’t we? I may have found one when Silver Surfing the other day; it was a pair of Celestron Granite 10x42 binoculars for £199.99, free postage. 

I have been looking for a pair of inexpensive bins I could leave in the car at all times to lessen the chances of heading out birding and then at the crucial moment realising bins had been left at home. Old Age coupled with being none the wiser is a terrible handicap. 

I knew the Granite range of binoculars was a few years old but that didn’t worry me too much if the price and quality worked OK.  A search of Internet reviews and You Tube showed that the marque and 10x42 HD model was top of the range and well received when first introduced. The ones found on the Internet had just a few years ago retailed at around £400 but had now been superseded by newer but not necessarily better models. 

Celestron 10x42 ED 

Celestron is a company based in California that manufactures telescopes and distributes telescopes, binoculars, spotting scopes, microscopes, and accessories manufactured by its parent company, the Synta Technology Corporation of Taiwan. 

Therefore, no illusions, my new binoculars are probably manufactured somewhere in China, not uncommon for much of the current generation of birding optics, and a way for large companies to increase profits. 

A search via Google for “birding optics China” brings up names like Zeiss, Nikon, Bushnell, Kowa, Vortex and RSPB. The internet also tells how some Leica binoculars are made in Portugal and have been for many years. Portugal is a country usually associated with producing top quality wines and corks that seal the bottles rather than the manufacture of optics.  

There’s no real reason why in 2020 Chinese and other manufacturing countries cannot make quality optics that were once produced by well-known German and Japanese names. There are many high quality products made in China these days - the world has moved on. 

Meanwhile "made in" labelling is an absolute minefield as "Made in Germany" or "Made in Japan” could mean performing the final operation in Germany/Japan for a product actually made in another continent. This could be as simple as sticking on the "made in" label, attaching straps, packaging, or any other number of minor jobs. Zeiss Conquest and Zeiss Terra models fall under this category with a design sourced from Kamakura, Japan. Kamakura has some manufacturing capacity in mainland China, and may source components, or even assemblies from local producers there. 

So, what of my pristine bins when I opened the box and then tested them out? 

Celestron Granite 10x42 ED 

Like most roof prism binoculars these days, they are fully sealed and nitrogen-purged to be waterproof, dust proof and internally fog proof. As the ED label implies, Granite binoculars are made with high-density, Extra-low Dispersion glass and BaK4 prisms with high-reflective coatings which are said to improve image clarity and throughput and to provide major performance enhancements relative to cheaper glass. 

Close focusing seems good at less than 7ft with a field of view that the makers claim is 340ft but which I am unable to test just yet. These new bins weigh in at an acceptable 26 ounces and stand at a very compact 5.8 inches tall and 4.5 inches wide, dimensions almost identical to my other pair of bins, 10x42 Vortex Vipers. I especially like the open-bridge design that allows a user to hold the binoculars more securely than the traditional joined double barrel format.    

The Granites are covered in smooth matt black rubber armouring free of any texturing. Shallow thumb grooves on the underside of the barrels increase the comfort of the grip overall. The metal eyecups adjust with a standard helical-twist mechanism, with one stable intermediate position between fully in and fully out. The action is smooth and fairly precise; likewise the focus mechanism that turned smoothly straight out of the box. 

The dioptre adjustment is a simple twist ring beneath the right ocular lens. A raised vertical dash on the ring lines up with a triangular mark on the armouring of the barrel to denote the position for equal eyes, with minus and plus signs on either side to indicate the direction of adjustment. The mechanism does not lock, and there are no markings to indicate positioning away from the equal position, though there are other positions using the raised oval markings on the twist ring. This is a typical basic dioptre adjustment mechanism, and one that once set, rarely needs further changes. 

The box contains the expected top and bottom lens covers to guard against rain, dust and misuse. Misuse perhaps of those birders who leave binoculars bouncing around the foot well of their car? 

Celestron did a good job with the straps. In addition to a standard neck strap, which is pretty comfortable, Celestron also provides a harness strap, but it’s not something I will use. There's a soft carrying case made of rubber-coated fabric which provides padding to protect the optics. The lid closes with a pressure-opening clasp. There is also an outer pouch for lens cleaning tools or whatever. A good, simple and functional case. 

Celestron Granite 10x42 ED

All in all, I like these Granites a lot. They offer a great level of optical quality and usability for £200. They continue the trend of making high-quality glass available to those who don’t have £thousands to spend on binoculars. Anyone in the market for a low-cost birding glass, should consider snapping up one of these bargains while they are still available for around £200. 

I just looked again on the Internet where I found just one supplier still offering the same 10x42 model at £199.99. Amazon came in at £240, a number of outlets wanted £299 and one asked £310.00. 

Alternatively, for badge freaks top of the range 10x42 binoculars from Swarovski, Zeiss and Leica bins all retail around the £1900 mark. 

Linking today to Anni's Birding and Eileen's Viewing Nature. 

An Apple A Day

Here’s wishing every one my readers a Happy, Prosperous, Optimistic and Bird Filled New Year. 

The first post of 2020 concerns the common Blackbird Turdus merula. 

The Blackbird is ubiquitous in these parts, so common that it rarely makes the bird headlines. On a Rarity Scale of one to ten the mundane and seemingly uninteresting Blackbird scores a resounding zero to most birders. 

Since early December there have been lots of Blackbirds in my garden with an average count of 15 on any given day but now in the New Year down to a handful. But on dull, rainy days I’ve taken a closer look at the numbers together with their diverse appearance and behaviour. 

Blackbird 

Our Blackbird is also called Eurasian Blackbird, especially in North America. This is to distinguish it from unrelated New World icterids (e.g tanagers) and species that have “blackbird” in their title (e.g. Red-winged Blackbird, Melodious Blackbird), birds which have a superficial resemblance to the Blackbird even though they are unrelated by evolution. 

Blackbird

It may not be immediately apparent why the name "blackbird", first recorded in 1486, was applied to this species and not to one of the other common black English birds, such as the Carrion Crow, Raven, Rook, or Jackdaw.  In Old English, and in modern English up to about the 18th century, "bird" was used only for smaller or young birds, and larger ones such as crows were called "fowl". At that time, the Blackbird was the only widespread and conspicuous "black bird" in the British Isles. (Wiki).

Blackbird

Turdus merula breeds in Europe, Asia, and North Africa, and has a number of subspecies across its large range; a few of the Asian subspecies are sometimes considered to be full species. The Blackbird is but one member of the genus Turdus, one of  about 65 species of medium to large thrushes dotted around the world.  Depending on latitude, the common Blackbird may be resident, partially migratory, or fully migratory. 

In the last four weeks Blackbirds, resident, migratory or maybe even fully migratory cleaned me out of apples, not a six-pack from Tesco, but dozens and dozens of windfalls left in the garden since September. 

During early September we, the family and neighbours took our fill of this year’s bumper crop of Granny Smiths until apple crumble, apple pie, apple charlotte, baked apple, apple cake and fried apples came out of our ears.  Just along Grange Lane our friend Stinky the Pig welcomed a few bags of slightly bruised apples and grunted in delight at our generosity. 

Stinky

Blackbirds eat apples and many types of soft fruit. I know from experience that they like blackberries, raspberries, blackcurrants, strawberries, cherries grapes, plums, damsons and even kiwi fruit. They don’t seem keen on pineapple - very wise; neither do I - more so when it defaces a crusty pizza. 

Blackbird

Blackbird

In Australia where the Blackbird was introduced in the 19th century it is now considered a pest because it damages a variety of soft fruits in orchards, parks and gardens including berries, cherries, stone fruit and grapes. 

Meanwhile and by the middle of September when we left for a Greek holiday all the fallen apples were deliberately left for the onset of cold weather and the annual arrival of thrushes. By early December it was good to see 15/20 Blackbirds on most days, the only member of the thrush tribe, with no garden sightings of Song Thrush, Mistle Thrush, Redwing or Fieldfare. We had few days of real frost, ice or snow during that period. 

Blackbird

And now in January 2020 as the apples have shrunk to morsels of apple skin and not much else, the Blackbirds have mostly left in search of other bounty. 

There’s been the full range of Blackbirds. Both male and female adults, first winters of both sexes, black ones, brown ones and grey toned ones. We’ve had males & females with yellow bills, and then dark-billed Blackbirds of both sexes. Size was apparent with both large and small Blackbirds, plus some of intermediate size. 

Blackbird

The large ones, especially the yellow-billed males, threw their weight around by way of chasing off the less dominant dark bills from an apple that they themselves took a liking to. I suspect these were local birds defending both an apple and their familiar winter territory. 

Females have seemed less aggressive, submissive even, in allowing themselves to be chased away from an apple and content to find an alternative. Meanwhile larger females would also chase away other females and even less dominant males. 

There’s no doubt that many, many dozens of Blackbirds took advantage of our apple bonanza and that a number of them were "Continental Blackbirds", winter immigrants escaping the colder temperatures of Europe. 

Blackbird

Blackbird

Blackbird 

Blackbird

Yep!  Blackbirds are definitely worth a second look.  A 1/10 if ever I saw one.

Linking today to Anni's Birding in Texas and also to Eileen's Saturday Blogging. Take a look and join in.